Apr 302012
 

Just an update to my hops gardening for April 30th 2012. My cascade hops rhizome has produced one 100_2086shoot so far and it is growing FAST. within 3 days time it has gone from just barely breaking the surface to almost 2 inches tall.  This one should be a fast grower! I can’t wait til I can harvest some Cascade hops off this plant. If I get a couple ounces of dried Cascade hops it’ll go nicely in a Harvest ale at the end of the growing season.

The Galena hops rhizome had me a little worried at first. It was taking 100_2085 it’s sweet time sending a shoot up to break the surface. However once it did it sent not one, not two but THREE shoots up. Hopefully this one will grow quickly as well. It needs to catch up to the rest of the hops. Galena normally has a fairly strong citrus aroma and I love using it for dry hopping my IPA. This along with the Cascade will make an awesome Harvest ale in early Fall.

The Ultra (decided to stop calling them Ultra/Crystal and just claim100_2087 them to be Ultra until I’m told otherwise) have been on a growth spurt. Two out of the four bines reached 18-19 inches in length and then fell over onto the support line and wrapped themselves. I had always read that you had to train them to the string because they wouldn’t 100_2089 wrap naturally. These are proving that to be wrong! That’s ok by me, maybe they’re just smart hops and will make the worlds first smart beer!

The remaining Ultra hop bine is growing a bit slower but still growing at a rate of about 1.5-2 inches a day. It should be on the string within100_2091 the next couple days. At least I hope it is since I’ll be going camping for a few days at the end of the week and I would like it on the string by then.  Right now it’s about 10.5 inches tall and I just gave them all a good  feeding yesterday of Miracle-Gro.

There you go, my update for the end of April. I’ll take more pics and do another update early next week after I come back from camping.

 

Prost!
MM

Apr 252012
 

Ok, here’s my review for an online ordering experience for homebrew supplies from Midwest Supplies. It might seem harsh but read the entire review for my overall impression (yes I’m picky as hell when it comes to MY expectations when spending MY money). Normally I pickup all my homebrew supplies/ingredients  from my LHBS (Local Home Brew Store). I’m very lucky to have Brewmasters Warehouse as my LHBS and rarely need to order online. However there are times when they are simply out of something and have no ETA for getting it back in. This was the case when I inquired about some hops needed for an upcoming brew day.  What was needed that my LHBS didn’t have? Sorachi Ace and Motueka hops. After searching the internet for online stores that carried them AND had them in stock I finally found Midwest Supplies had both of the elusive hops in stock! I quickly added them to my shopping cart and proceeded to checkout. Everything up this point went very smoothly.

During checkout I was given the option to create an account with Midwest. I chose that option and filled out the form and proceeded with my checkout.  $5 worth of hops with a $6.35 shipping fee. OUCH!  I did opt to get their FREE Brewing DVD and catalog so that might have bumped the price on shipping but I doubt it. For simplicity and buyer protection I opted to use PayPal to make my payment. Everything went smooth right? Not really. The account I created during checkout never got created. I had to go back after the fact and create a new account using the same info I used before. Sadly my order was NOT connected to my account and there was NO WAY to check on my order status.

I did receive an email (to the address used for PayPal and not the one I thought was being used in the account I thought was created) confirming my order, complete with an order number. The email confirmed I had paid through PayPal and said I would get an email in 24-48 hours with a tracking number. That was the ONLY communication I had from them. Since my order was placed on a Friday afternoon, I waiting until Tuesday afternoon to even start to contact them. I sent them a PM on Homebrew Talk since they are fairly active there. No reply.

Wednesday morning my mail carrier pulled up outside my house and brought a package to my door. It was the hops I had ordered from Midwest. Thankful to have my hops I quickly took them out of the box and stuck them in the freezer. I checked my email, nada from Midwest. Not that it would matter at this point to get a tracking number but I’m wondering how long it’ll take or IF they’ll ever contact me about the order.

The following are MY feelings about the DVD. I do applauded Midwest for even making it and offering it for FREE to their customers.
I popped the DVD into my computer and well, it didn’t want to play right (I use Linux and the DVD didn’t like the player I was using) so I took it into the other room and played in my DVD player. The video is a simple video that gives the basics. It has Extract brewing covered, All Grain Brewing covered, making Wine from juice and making wine from fruits. It also has a brief section on soda and liquor. There were a few things in the brewing DVD that kind of hit me wrong. In the extract version,  when talking about water. They use the old standard of if it tastes good it’ll make good beer. That’s not bad info but to say that if you use well water that you’d be better off using store bought water is just flat out WRONG. At least well water doesn’t have CHLORINE or CHLOROMINE in it. They didn’t mention that at all. Again it was a basic explanation of how to brew.
The All Grain section of the DVD really needs to understand that a mashout isn’t to prevent a stuck sparge but to make the sugars’ more fluid and more easily rinsed. It would have been nice if they included a little acknowledgement about BIAB brewing but that’s just nit picking. Another thing that they should have mentioned is.. you don’t need to collect exactly 6 or 6.5 gallons of water. You might need to collect MORE if your boil off rate is higher. there is no set in stone number for boil off. it WILL be different for each setup.

The wine sections are pretty straight forward on wine making showing the different equipment needed if you want to press your own grapes. They also cover a recfratometer in this section. They do mention a hydrometer in both brewing sections and both wine sections. They however only say it’s used to determine how much alcohol is present. It’s really used to record the Starting Gravity and Final Gravity (SG and FG). I understand that their main goal here is to give the BASICS and to hopefully increase sales. Maybe one day I’ll do an in-depth brewing video just to cover as many bases in brewing as I can and then I’ll do it my way and open myself up for criticism like this.

Pros and Cons for shopping with Midwest Supplies:

Pros: If it’s in stock it says so on their website. Prices are about average. They offer several shipping options. They use a 3 person QC on the order. one for the picker, one for the auditor and one for the packer. They were quick to get the order packed and shipped. My order was accurate and complete. They offer a FREE DVD on the BASICS of brewing. It might not be the greatest but at least they do offer it. Big thumbs up to them for that.

Cons: Complete lack of communication. In this day and age there is no excuse for poor communication. The checkout option to create an account obviously didn’t work. With no account I was unable to see status updates for my order. If they are going to drop the ball on communication at least provide a way for a customer to enter an order number and get an update without needing an account. If you offer an option to make an account, make sure it works. Shipping rates are a little steep.

Overall impression: Overall I’d recommend them to others. I would tell them to create and account BEFORE ordering that way they can check on order statuses in the event that they don’t get any emails. If I need to order online in the future I’ll consider ordering from Midwest again.  I know my comments above may have seemed like I was unhappy with my shopping experience and I truly wasn’t. I was just unhappy with the lack of communication that probably would have been avoided if the account creation during checkout had worked. Thanks Midwest for having the hops I was looking for in stock and getting them to me in time to brew this weekend.

Prost!
MM

Apr 232012
 

Just a quick update on how my hops are doing. I was able to pick up my last 2 hops rhizomes and got them into the ground last week. Hopefully they’ll be breaking the surface in another week. Now I have 3 ultra/crystal plants going and have planted 1 cascade and 1 galena. I’m not expecting a lot of hops the first year so any that I get will be a welcome bonus.

The Ultra/Crystal hops are taking off. my last update had mentioned that they were alive and had broken ground. as of today they are 6-7.5 inches in height and growing rapidly. IF the weather makes up its mind on if it’s late winter, early spring or early summer I’m sure the plants would be much happier. Here are a few pics to show how they’re growing. I’ll update again as they continue to grow.

Prost
MM

100_2083100_2082100_2084

Apr 232012
 

I’ve done reviews in the past of brewing software that I felt was worth looking at. I tried t make sure that I reviewed programs that were available to multiple platforms. However, this time around I’m reviewing an app for the Android family of phones and tablets for Android 2.3 and higher. The app is called BrewAide and is written by D-Ring Apps.

There are other apps out there available for the Android OS and I have used a lot of2012-04-23 14.11.52 them. Some of the apps out there allow for complete creation of recipes from your Android device. BrewAide isn’t one of those apps. It is however, the ONLY app currently available that will read BeerSmith2 files (bsmx format). While BrewAide doesn’t allow you to create or modify recipes, it does have some features that are more than worth not including that ability.

When you launch the application you are at the main menu. From the main menu you have several options. Before you can load a recipe you need to tell BrewAide where it can look for the recipe files. This is accomplished by tapping on settings and then going through the menu options to specify a folder on the SD card, or to allow a 2012-04-23 14.11.52-10Drop Box connection. (drop box folder needs to be dropbox\Apps\Brew Buddy\Recipes or it will fail to locate the recipes). Once this is set there is no need to go back in there and set it again. The SD card location can be ANY folder on your SD card.  With the location set, now you have to copy the BSMX files for EACH recipe to either the2012-04-23 14.11.52-1 SD card location or the Drop Box folder and they’ll be available in Brew Aide.

With the locations set and recipes loaded into the appropriate locations, you can tap the folder button on the main screen and choose the location of choice. For me I choose to use a Drop Box folder.  Now you may notice there’s a third option. Beersmith Cloud. This has been added because Beersmith will be adding cloud storage for recipes very soon (currently in beta test) A cloud storage option will make using Beersmith on more than one computer/tablet/phone MUCH easier.

2012-04-23 14.11.52-2Once you select a folder to open you are presented with a list of the recipes you have loaded into the folder of choice. From here you simply scroll to and tap the recipe you wish to view. I have started saving all my recipes into individual bsmx files on my drop box just to have them available at any given time in BrewAide. Once you get used to doing that simple step you don’t even notice it being an extra step anymore. While it would be nice if you could export ALL recipes in a single recipes.bsmx and import them all at once, I do understand the decision to not do it that way. Since you can’t edit the recipes, any changes must be done in Beersmith and then exported again.

With a recipe selected and opened you have a familiar view that would be seen in2012-04-23 14.11.52-3 Beersmith. The pint glass with a estimation of the color of the final beer is there. The visual bars indication where in the style guidelines the beer could potentially be is shown. It all looks very nice and clean and familiar to those that use Beersmith. The important information is also there like the recipe itself. The Beer style, brew’s name, beer name, it’s all there just like you entered in Beersmith. At the top of the screen there are five buttons. View (what you are currently in) Brew Steps, Timers, Tools and main.

2012-04-23 14.11.52-4Tapping the Brew Steps button will open a screen that has all of the brewing steps that would be found in Beersmith is you clicked on the brew steps button.  (notice that I have included portrait and landscape images throughout this review to show that it works in both orientations).

Clicking on the Timers button takes you to a timers screen. This to 2012-04-23 14.11.52-7me is one of the most important screens. Based on the information you put into the recipe in Beersmith, the timers are automatically set for the Mash and Boil. If you had multiple steps in your mash design, those steps are listed and an alarm will go off for each one. The same goes for additions to the boil. Each one will have an alert set and will sound based on the times in the recipe. The only addition that doesn’t get an alarm is any hops additions that are in for the entire boil. Which of course makes perfect sense as they go in before you start the timer.  A future release of the app will also allow editing the timers if needed.

The Tools button takes you to another very useful portion of the app. In here you will find buttons for Refractometer, Dilution, Boil Off, Temp, Convertor, Volume Convertor, Weight Convertor, and Pressure Convertor. Out of these tools the pressure convertor is one that I just don’t see as that important, but it’s still there if needed.

2012-04-23 14.11.52-8The refractometer tool is you standard refractometer tool, It can be useful for those with a refractometer and wanting to determine if fermentation is complete. Once alcohol is introduced, a refractometer becomes less accurate. that is unless you use some available math formulas to correct for it. Or unless you use a tool like this one.

The Dilution tool is a great way to determine the FG of a beer that you intend to dilute. There are several reasons to do exactly that such as pressure fermenting a 5 gallon batch in a 5 gallon Corny keg. This would allow you to ferment a 4 gallon batch and then dilute the end product to 5 gallons. Boil off is of course there to help you determine your boil off rate. Which is something every brewer should know. The convertors are jus that, they convert from one set of measurements to another. Always a useful tool when looking at a recipe from someone in a country that uses a different measurement system.

That leaves us with the Main button which takes us back to the beginning. Here’s a link to the BrewAide app in the Android Market If you brew, If you use Beersmith and if you have an Android phone or tablet, then GET THIS APP. If you don’t use Beersmith but have a program that uses BeerXML format, that’s a planned update so GET IT now and you’ll be ahead of the curve.  The developer is very active and updates as soon as bug is found and fixed. He is also active on Homebrewtalk.com just go there and search for BrewAide and you’ll find his thread.

Apr 132012
 

I was reading an article from Brad Smith at Beersmith.com the other day on the American Amber Ale also known as the Northwest Red Ale and it got me thinking. The American Amber is very similar to my Irish Red Ale that I currently brew but uses American hops and can be dry hopped in order to give it a more typical American hoppy beer aroma. The American Amber isn’t a bitter beer, it’s just loaded with hops aroma while still being a balanced beer with the balance more towards the malty side

. My Raging Red Irish Red Ale is balanced to the malty side and uses crystal and cascade hops. The cascade is used early enough in the boil that the aroma is isn’t noticed and it makes a very tasty Irish Red Ale (Gold medal winner 2011 Peach State Brew Off). I also use a clean fermenting yeast (WLP001 California Ale is my normal yeast for this beer). If I added a dry hop to the schedule it should produce a decent American Amber/Northwest Red Ale.

I currently have my Raging Red Ale awaiting a keg to empty and figured why not dry hop it. So today I added 2 oz. of Galena hops and will let it sit for a week then cold crash and keg it. This beer should turn out great. Other than adding a dry hop I did use a different yeast. This time I used Pacman yeast from Wyeast (The Rogue brewery strain) and I used Willamette for the 60 minute and 30 minute additions. this should give me about 28 IBU’s which will be balanced just slightly on the malty side.

Here’s a run down of what I’m looking at for the numbers.

OG: 1.059
FG: 1.013
IBU: 28
SRM: 15.6
ABV: 6.0%

I’ll be taking this beer camping at the beginning of May and will be sure to report back on how well it was received. Of course, now I need to come up with a name for it :)

Prost!
MM

Mar 302012
 

100_2076Just a quick update. I has been about 1 week since I first planted the unknown rhizomes in area 1 of my hops garden. During that time I have watered them every other day. Not a drenching amount of water but enough to keep the ground moist while the rhizomes come to life and start sending out their roots. While checking on them early this morning I noticed something barely poking out of the ground. At the time it was maybe 1/4 inch in length and I thought I was seeing something other than a start of a hop shoot. Later today I decided to check again. There it was, a hop shoot poking out of the ground about 3/4 of an inch long!. It’s Alive!!! At least I know that I’m doing something right and can’t wait for the rest to break the surface.

Prost!
MM

Mar 302012
 

100_2073   As promised, I’m documenting my first adventure into growing hops at home. I placed an order through BrewMasters Warehouse for cascade and galena rhizomes. While waiting on those to arrive I was given some rhizomes from a member of my homebrew club. These rhizomes are either Ultra or Crystal. He wasn’t sure and won’t be sure until he digs up his hop yard diagram he made 4 years ago. Both are low alpha hops used in flavoring or finishing of English ales so either way I’m sure they’ll get put to good use in my beers.

Now that I had a few rhizomes and since my ordered ones should be arriving soon I prepared a couple areas 100_2074to plant them. I knew I would need an area that would let me run the twine up 15+ feet in order to let the hops have room to climb. Wanting to make this a growing experience that was as cheap as possible buying posts to put into the ground was out of the equation. My house on the other hand, is 3 stories on the front with a deck spanning the entire front on the main level. Placing hooks along the top edge of the deck  gives me almost 20 feet (6 meters) from ground to hook. This should be plenty of room for the hops.

With the height problem resolved, I only needed to clear and prepare the ground. I had 2 areas in mind for the hops to grow. the front of my house is has a E/SE exposure and will get good sun from the morning until mid/late afternoon. That is area 1 where the donated rhizomes are planted. Area 2 where my cascade and galena rhizomes will be planted is on the front corner of the house which has a mostly southern exposure and will receive sunlight from morning until very late afternoon. With the areas picked out I borrowed a tiller from my neighbor and set out to turn some dirt.

100_2071Area 1 is a 7’ x 7’ (2.13m x 2.13m) area next to my wife’s rose bush. This bush is MASSIVE and was here long before we bought the house. Last winter I took my pruning shears to the rose bush cutting it back until I was afraid it would not recover. Thankfully it has recovered nicely. By trimming the rose bush I was able to free up an area for hops that was previously covered  up with branches that had thrones big enough to cause arterial bleeding if you weren’t careful. The tiller did a great job of turning over the soil, which to my surprise was a nice dark rich soil. Why would I be surprised? This is Georgia, 99% of the soil here is red clay. I’m talking about the thick sticky red clay that could be shaped, dried painted and fired in a kiln to make just about anything. As a child we used to make bowls or cups and just100_2072 about anything out of the stuff and let it sit in the hot Georgia sun for a week and it was hard as a rock.

Area 2 is 8’ x 8’ (2.43m x 2.43m) that again surprised me with nice dark dirt instead of red clay. You might think that by now I shouldn’t be surprised but I am. I tilled an area for my wife’s blueberry bushes 20 feet away and it was 100% red clay. It appears that the area right next to my house has some great soil while the rest is crap. This tells me that top soil was put into place on purpose when the house was built. YAY for me! For both area 2 and area 1  (and the wife’s blueberry area) I tilled in some Moo-nure ™ to add some good nutrients to the soil.

With the areas prepared I planted the unknown rhizomes in area 1 and watered them. Now I’ll just have to play the waiting game. Waiting for the remaining rhizomes to arrive and waiting for them to start to sprout. Time for a beer!

 

Prost!
MM

Mar 272012
 

Last weekend was the 2012 Peach State Brew Off. It is the ONE competition I enter each year. This year I entered 4 beers. Oatmeal Stout, Kölsch, Cream Ale and American Pale Ale. As with any competition, some styles may be grouped together if there isn’t enough entries. However, you’d think that they would group styles that are at least CLOSE to the same style profile. Last year they grouped Sweet Stout and Oatmeal Stout. Completely understandable as they are very similar in profile. This year Oatmeal Stout and Dry Stout were grouped together. That isn’t in my opinion a good grouping as they are different enough to confuse the pallet of the judges.

Oatmeal Stout and Dry Stout are on the other hand not similar. One is a dry  black beer that derives it’s flavor from the heavy use of black malt and roasted barely. The other uses oatmeal to make it creamier with a nutty/toasty flavor and a slickness in the mouth feel. It also should have a more dark bitter sweet chocolate flavor. neither should have much inn hop aroma or bitterness instead the perceived bitterness should come from the darker grains.

That said, my Oatmeal Stout which last year scored a 38.5 and took home a silver this year scored a 32.5.  here are the score sheets for that beer. Notice that they both said the beer was hoppy. One even noticed a slickness in the mouth feel. They both said to reduce the bittering hops and one said to INCREASE the use of dark grain? WTF? It’s already so black it blocks out the sun! As far as bitterness, it had 28 IBU. All bitterness came from 2oz of Kent Goldings added at 60 minutes. The bitterness they are tasting comes from the heavy handed use of Chocolate Malt.

The American Pale Ale was really my Eleventy In Da Woods IPA. I entered it as an APA simply because I knew the judges would ding me because it wasn’t “bitter enough “ to be an IPA. My personal feeling on that is this:  By the time an IPA reached India from England via a 5-7 month ocean voyage, the bitterness level would have DROPPED to a level that while still bitter would be SLIGHTY above a traditional pale ale. The judges both liked the beer. It did advance to the mini-Best Of Show (BOS). One judge dinged the beer for a fruity ester while the other didn’t. I feel the fruity ester was really just the use of citrus forward hops. It was also dinged for being a little hazy. Of course it was a little hazy, it was dry hopped! Over all the beer scored a 36 and I’m happy with the results. here’s the Score Sheet. for that beer

Now, the Cream Ale and The Kölsch were grouped together. SO I had 2 beers fighting against each other. I will freely admit that these beers were rushed and both really could have used a good 1-2 months cold conditioning before bottling to clean the up in both flavor and appearance. My problem with this part of the competition was. They used judges that are NOT certified BJCP judges. For the Cream Ale/Kölsch category they had 3 judges, one was certified.  For my Cream Ale, the certified judge liked the beer and scored it a 32. The NON-CERTIFIED tasters (they aren’t certified so shouldn’t be called judges) didn’t like it. One dinged it for a cream corn flavor which is EXPECTED and ALLOWED in a CREAM ALE made with the use of CORN. While the real judge said there was no corn flavor. Here’s the score sheet for the Cream Ale.

The Kölsch unfortunately was tasted last in it’s flight. That can have an affect on how a beer is perceived. I know it REALLY needed a little longer in primary and REALLY needed a nice month or two lagering to make it perfect. However, one thing it didn’t need was to be lighter in color. Yet it was dinged for being to dark. Again the use of 2 tasters (not judges unless certified) along with a certified judge in my opinion WRONG. I understand that the promoters of the competition might not have enough judges volunteer, maybe they should start NOW on lining judges up for next year. Maybe they should spread the judging out over a 1 month period in order to use only certified judges and that would also allow time between different beer types to have their pallet recover.  Here’s the score sheet for the Kölsch which like I said I know needed more time in primary as well as cold conditioning.

Next year I’ll make sure my beers are brewed a couple months in advance in order to let them fully ferment and cold condition to make them perfectly clear and crisp. If they use a lot of non-certified tasters next year then maybe it’ll be time to stop entering their competition and focus on another one.

Prost!
MM

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